Housetraining 101
Housetraining, Part II, Troubleshooting
Jacque Lynn Schultz, C.P.D.T., Companion Animal Programs Adviser. National Outreach
The
Potty Wars, Part I, outlined Housebreaking 101, stressing the
importance of the Three Cs: Consistency
of schedule, Confinement to a training crate when alone, and
Cleaning up accidents with an enzymatic odor neutralizer. Part II
addresses four complaints often heard when the Potty Wars
continue to rage.
I. "My dog eliminates in her crate."
There are two common causes for crate soiling. First, the crate
may be too large for current housebreaking purposes, thus
allowing your dog to soil at one end and lie high and dry at the
other. Second, bedding in the crate may be acting like a diaper,
wicking offensive waste and moisture away.
The solutions are easy! If the crate is too large, reduce its size with a barrier that blocks off excess room. The pup should have just enough room to stand up, turn around in a circle and stretch out. As for bedding, your dog must earn it by keeping her crate clean for approximately seven days. When she accomplishes that, add thin bedding, such as a sheet or worn towel. If that too stays clean, then you are safe to add whatever bedding you like.
Make sure you do not have unrealistic expectations and are not crating the pup for too long a stretch. And, if the problem stems from behavior learned during an extended stay at a pet shop, you will probably need to work hands-on with a professional trainer to develop a customized protocol.
II. "No matter how long we stay outside, my dog waits
until we are home to soil."
This problem is common in urban dogs who were paper-trained until
they were fully immunized. Most folks paper-train by putting down
papers in one spot, taking the puppy to the spot until the dog
seems to "get it," then leaving the dog in peace to eliminate.
The puppy learns that housebreaking means going to a particular
place in private to soil. The papers are almost incidental. Avoid
this problem by simulating outdoor walking habits indoors. Put
down the papers on a schedule instead of leaving them out
constantly, and place them in different places instead of always
the same spot. Take your pup to the papers on leash, teaching her
a toileting command such as "Do your business," and praise her
for a job well done. This routine easily transfers to walks
outdoors.
III. "My dog keeps me outside for hours before he
goes!"
Some folks walk their pups just until they eliminate and then
promptly turn around and head for home. In no time, dogs learn
that they can extend the fun only if they can "hold" themselves.
A walk should be the reward for soiling. When you leave your
home, take your dog immediately to a suitable toileting spot,
such as a lamp post, patch of grass, or curb in front of a fire
hydrant. It's helpful if this is a spot other dogs use. Issue
your potty command. Circle the spot with your dog for five
minutes, ten minutes tops. If he urinates, praise and go play. If
he holds, go right back in and crate him. Try again in an hour or
two. Before you know it, you should have a dog who will eliminate
on command in his spot.
IV. "My dog was housebroken, but when he turned nine
months old, he started baptizing the sofa near the
window."
As a male dog matures and begins to lift his leg, he marks his
territory, leaving scent cues for other canines. Consider
castration, since an un-neutered male is more likely to engage in
marking behavior than a neutered one. A well-timed verbal
correction when he is lifting his leg is helpful, too.
Confinement will once again be necessary when he is alone until
the problem is resolved.
The Potty Wars too often make adversaries of dogs and their
caretakers. It should be a battle waged together, on the same
side, because the spoils of this war—a clean and dry
home—spell victory for all parties concerned.
