Mary E. Cotter, Ed.D., Licensed Educator, House Rabbit Society
Pine and cedar shavings are not recommended for use with
rabbits and other small mammals. Inhaled phenols (the
substances that make pine and cedar “smell good”)
can cause liver changes in rabbits. Clay litters (clumping or
non-clumping) are also not recommended. The
“clumpers” can clump in the rabbit’s GI
tract, and dust from plain clay litters can exacerbate
respiratory problems.
Spaying and neutering is recommended for all rabbits.
Rabbits can have a litter every 30 days, and can get pregnant
within minutes after giving birth. Not only does
spaying/neutering prevent unwanted litters, but it also
protects female rabbits from uterine cancer (the rate as
females grow older ranges from 50-80%), and permits male/female
pairs to live happily together without being driven by their
hormones.
Rabbits can easily be litterbox-trained—but you and
the rabbit must “negotiate” this process. Start in
a small area. Watch to see which corner the rabbit wants to use
for urination, and place a litterbox there. Some rabbits need
several litterboxes to start.
The primary component of a mature rabbit’s diet
should be grass hay (Timothy, Brome, Orchard Grass, etc.). This
should be given fresh daily, in large quantities. Hay can be
ordered over the internet from various companies (see
http://www.rabbit.org/links/mail-order-resources.html). Using
hay as a litterbox material is ideal; it cushions the
rabbit’s feet so they stay dry, and encourages the rabbit
to munch on hay while he’s doing his business. To
supplement hay, feed a daily salad of dark green leafy
vegetables. Rabbit pellets should be given only in very limited
quantities. The unrestricted feeding of pellets leads to
obesity and often to bladder sludge. If you use pellets, buy
only perfectly plain ones; do not be tempted by the
“fancier” pellets with their eye-catching seeds,
nuts, corn, and other “tidbits.” These ingredients
are simply not good for your rabbit over the long term, and
some of them are downright dangerous.
Be sure to “bunny-proof” the areas where your
rabbit will exercise. Many—though not all— rabbits
are prodigious chewers. They will chew electrical wires,
carpeting, and other objects commonly found in any household.
Although many people keep rabbits outdoors, this is not
recommended. Indoor rabbits live healthier, happier, longer
(7-10 years or more) lives.
Never attempt to “punish” or
“discipline” a rabbit. These tactics will often
create fear and defensive biting. If you need help with a
behavior problem, contact your local HRS representative or
visit the HRS web site: www.rabbit.org.
Rabbits need veterinarians skilled in rabbit medicine. Many
wonderful vets are expert with other species, but are not
knowledgeable about rabbits, and may administer inappropriate
or harmful drugs in their efforts to help. To find a
rabbit-savvy veterinarian in your area, contact your local HRS
representative, or search the HRS web page:
www.rabbit.org.
Anorexia and/or watery diarrhea in rabbits should be
considered emergencies. Seek expert veterinary care
immediately.
Rabbits are not recommended for small children. Rabbits are
prey animals by nature, and are easily frightened by
children’s handling. Rabbits are often dropped by
children, resulting in broken legs and backs. An adult should
always be the rabbit’s primary caretaker, and should
carefully supervise any children interacting with the
rabbit.
The most common rabbit veterinary problems are: ear mites,
ear infections, urinary tract infections, abscesses, tooth
problems (incisor malocclusion and/or molar spurs), uterine
cancer (in unspayed females), upper respiratory infections
(watch for sneezing or runny eyes/nose), gastrointestinal
slowdown or stasis, changes in balance or gait. A skilled
rabbit veterinarian should be consulted for any of these
problems.
