Petfinder.com forums :: View topic - Jan. 12th-18th -You've adopted! Now what? [ ]

You've adopted a dog or puppy. Congratulations! But now what do you do? Did you prepare ahead of time? Do you have all the necessary tools for keeping your new furry family member happy, healthy and safe? What about training? Puppy classes, house breaking, chewing, leash walking....so many things what do you do?
Bring your many questions and concerns here the week of January 12th and meet our guest expert Liz Marsden from http://missiondog.com/ - Mission Dog offers interactive and fun workshops and other educational tools for dog care professionals.

Elizabeth Marsden is a Certified Pet Dog Trainer who has worked in nonprofit animal shelters for more than 20 years and has been a professional, positive-reinforcement dog trainer since 2001. Her experience is with both limited-admission and open-admission shelters, where her work included designing dog temperament evaluation programs and counseling adopters. Liz was voted one of the top recommended dog trainers in Washingtonian Magazine in 2006, and continues to teach companion dog classes, private training sessions, and seminars. Liz is a Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. She lives in Chaplin, CT

See you all in January!

And on a special note, Petfinder.com is proud to announce the publication of the Dog Adoption Bible! This great tool is designed to guide you through your entire dog adoption process. Such items as deciding which breed or mix of breeds may fit in to your family, the type of shelter you wish to adopt from, how to prepare for your new dog and caring for him or her throughout their lifetime. The book will be available for purchase January 20th, 2009 ***link to come soon

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:08 am Post subject: Picking on a particular cat

I have a do that we adopted a few years ago and all was well until very recently. For some reason he has decided to get in the middle of the kitty squabbles and in particular he has been growly agressive toward the oldest cat. We try very hard to discourage the behavior, but are there any tricks or tips that you can recommend?

Liz's Answer:

Hmmm, hard to say why the behavior showed up after a few years. Dogs can definitely get aroused by other animals' fights or even rough play and jump right into the fray, and it may have taken awhile for the cat squabbles to elicit the full-blown "let's rumble" response from your dog, if that is what's now going on. Notice the dog's general behavior towards the cat(s): does he ignore them most of the time and only jump in when there is excitement, or excitement brewing (cats becoming stiff, fur standing on end etc)? Dogs can learn to read the signs of a brewing conflict and jump in, anticipating a full-blown fight -- and yours may be targeting the one cat if that cat is the one who gets tense first, for instance. Many people think it looks as if a dog is trying to break up a fight, when it is actually just reacting and jumping in, triggered by the other animal's behavior. (Lassie had other talents, but that's another story...)

Does he follow one or another of the cats around and nip/poke at the cat with his nose, maybe bow down at the front legs, bark or vocalize in any other way? Sometimes attempts to play can look very aggressive, even between two dogs -- there can be some herding behavior (circling/nipping/barking/chasing), straight-out attempts to initiate play/rough-housing (play-bowing, pawing, nipping and retreating, barking), and generally excitable-looking behaviors. Some cats think this is great, others get very upset when a dog tries to treat them like another dog!

You didn't say there have been any dog-inflicted injuries, so that says your dog does not intend to do any more than either play or get into the fight -- but not do serious damage. Dogs are incredibly efficient at inflicting damage when they mean to, and most have excellent "bite inhibition" (control over how hard they bite). If the dog and cats have lived together for several years, it's unlikely that any serious damage will be done. Still, you probably don't want your dog to harass the cats, if they don't seem to welcome his dog-like stalking.

To really change this behavior, I'd recommend a total management solution for 4-6 weeks. If your dog has been with the cats when you aren't home, he's probably practiced the behaviors you want to discourage dozens and dozens of times -- maybe hundreds! So, separate them when you aren't there to supervise. Do some basic training using treats and toys he likes as rewards for responding to his name, longer undivided attention to you, sitting, tricks, etc and ignoring the cats. Keep a six-foot leash on him and do short sessions where you reward him for chasing a toy, doing some basic obedience practice with you, etc while the cats are present. Once he knows the training game, he should begin to offer behaviors you have rewarded: keep rewarding them! If he starts to harass a cat, first try to redirect him by calling his name -- REWARD BIGTIME with treats/ a toy if he breaks contact with the cat! If he ignores you, simply take the end of the leash, say "uh-oh" and walk him away into another room for a two-minute time out. No scolding, nothing, just a time-out.

Keep at this and you should see improvement within 4-6 weeks. Your goal is a dog who "thinks' about jumping into a rumble with a cat and chooses to come find you instead. If there is anything you want to add or ask for clarification, fire away!
Elizabeth Marsden, CPDT
Certified Pet Dog Trainer
and Behavior Consultant

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:19 am Post subject: crate messing?

I recently adopted a puppy from our local shelter and he has been giving us a lot of grief with house breaking. We take him out first thing in the morning, then after breakfast, we put him in his crate and we come home around lunch to let him out again but he almost always has messed in the crate. We have been following everything the adoption booklet from the shelter states but it didn't cover this issue. Can you help? Thanks!

Liz's Answer:
Housetraining drama! Fun! Smile

OK, how old is the puppy? Is he sleeping in the crate all night and "holding it" then? Is the "lunchtime surprise" the only time you see an accident in the crate? Is he peeing/pooping, or both, in the crate? A general rule of thumb is that 10-30 minutes after eating/playing, the puppy will have to do either a #1 and/or #2. And, for every month the puppy is old, add an hour and that is the maximum time the puppy should be expected to "hold it." Are you giving the puppy one more chance to do his business before you actually leave for work -- one last potty break -- and waiting quietly until he does go? (Then of course whooping it up and rewarding with a couple of teeny tiny treats?) Feel free to give more details and I can give a much more detailed answer.
Elizabeth Marsden, CPDT
Certified Pet Dog Trainer
and Behavior Consultant

He poops and pees at night and the crate is next to our bed so we never hear a whine. I am a light sleeper and even more so when I am hoping for or anticipating the puppy whine. He gets to go two times before bed after dinner, and now I have an alarm set for 2am. He goes then but I still get the pee surprise in the morning with the occasional poop surprise. When I come home from work I let him our first thing...we come in and clean up any mess, play for a few, I eat lunch and then take him out one more time. Its been half and half now...some days I come home to a mess and some days not. so I think he is starting to catch on? I hope! When we are there we watch very carefully and keep him with us at all times like the booklet said, but I can be looking him straight in the eye and he just squats right in front of me. I scoop him up, tuck his tail and run him outside. The moment he finishes I make a fool out of myself and he is all happy with tail wags. But its just been rough. We are trying to be very consistent and he is the sweetest little guy, but he's just not getting it. I never had this sort of trouble before, I was very lucky with crate scholars and they were all shelter pets. BTW he is going on 16weeks. He was cleared at the vet and the presents are as solid as can be...just in case you ask. Smile

Thanks

Liz's Follow up response

Whew! Well, yes, you are doing everything that should work! A few things to consider -- was he from a puppy mill or shelter where, during early life, he had no opportunity to eliminate away from where he sleeps... this could explain the lack of "cleanliness." What breed/mix/size is he -- toy breeds have less bladder/bowel control, but what you're describing is even less control than what you'd expect. If he was in a shelter with bedding in the cage and he got used to peeing and pooping on bedding, this habit may continue, and removing bedding in the crate (at least until he gets out of this habit) could help -- is he going on the bedding, balling it up in the corner or just going and laying in it? I've observed a number of shelter dogs who have this habit. I once had an adult foster who was so used to peeing in her shelter blanket and balling it up, that the first day she was in my house, I went to sleep that night and smelled something funny -- it dawned on me that she had jumped on my bed when she felt the need (and I obviously wasn't looking) and left a huge puddle on my extra blanket! It was the only familiar surface she could find in the house, and she had no idea that going outside would be the best place!

I don't usually recommend withholding food or water, but just to get something accomplished, try to be sure no food or water is consumed within two hours of bedtime/crating when possible (at his age he should be OK with this unless he is a toy breed -- toy puppies' blood sugar can drop when they don't get fed more frequently). At lunch I understand you may not be able to do this since you have to go to work and he needs some food and water. That reminds me, are you feeding every meal and treat in the crate - the thought being that where he eats, he will be less likely to use that area as a toilet -- which I am sure you already know!

Is there any sign of stress in the crate? You didn't mention it -- but stress can mean more frequent bowel movements and urination. Is there something to chew in the crate -- to help with any stress -- a sterilized beef marrow bone smeared inside with a trace amount of canned dog food and then frozen can be a good pacifier. Comfort Zone -- a doggy pheromone that mimics a mother dog's comforting presence -- can also help with stress. When you take him outside and he eliminates, adding a real reward (a couple of very small pieces of cheese or hotdog, something really great) packs more of a punch than praise alone, so by all means use his stomach to help him make that connection; it should help him to wait to go outside because he gets such a super-special reward! When you are home, taking him out every half-hour so you have that chance to reward (and hopefully end those moments when he looks right at you and offers a urine-blast) should speed things up too as he learns that "saving himself" for outdoors is the best. I agree with your setting the alarm for 2:00 a.m. as well, until you have this problem solved. The fact that he seems to never whine to get out of the crate and go, and just goes wherever/whenever the urge strikes, despite your vigilant efforts, hints at the idea that he really does not have any idea that "holding it" for outside it is in his best interests, and he is not bothered by having a soiled crate. This makes your task even harder.

Last but not least, since the vet has cleared him of all possible physical causes for housetraining trouble, and if all else fails it's better to cave in and try an exercise pen for now rather than a crate -- actually the bed-sized crate inside the ex-pen with a comfy bed in the crate (assuming he is not addicted to eliminating on bedding) and a toilet area at the far other end should at least keep him clean and not in the habit of eliminating where he sleeps. To help further train him to eventually go outdoors exclusively, a natural surface in a low-sided doggie litterbox, as his "emergency toilet," should help. I'd suggest a cardboard box with low sides (the kind that cases of dog food cans come in -- ask your local pet store for extras) filled with toxin-free mulch, dirt, or a strip of sod. Of course this set-up is just to interrupt his habit of going in his crate/bed; you will still want to haul out of bed at 2:00 a.m. and do everything else you are doing to encourage the use of the great outdoors!

Bravo for sticking this out and trying! It may take a little while but with consistency you should be able to succeed.

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 12:44 pm Post subject:

My new rescue has an odd behavior. When we're walking her and another dog approaches, she lies down. Not in a submissive way, more like in a crouch. Sometimes the owner of the approaching dog will make a comment like, "She's crouching down like she's going to spring up and attack." But she doesn't; she just lies there and watches the other dog walk by. She doesn't do any other aggressive behavior such as growling or anything -- just crouches/lies down until the dog has walked past. What does this mean??

Liz's Answer:
Chances are, your girl is just trying to make herself as small and non-threatening as possible, waiting to see what will happen next in a nice, neutral position. Watch her eyes, ears, mouth and tail for other clues. Are her ears folded back? (She feels submissive, non-threatening). Are her ears forward? (Alert, tense). Is she staring at the dog (concerned/alert) or does she avoid direct eye contact or blink (conflict avoidance). Is her tail relaxed (not worried) or tucked under her butt (worried). Is her mouth closed tight in a pucker (ready for a threat) or is she panting slightly or showing a longer lip (relaxed). These body language cues can tell you a lot about what she's feeling.

Border collies crouch when they're getting themselves in position to do their thing -- chase a ball, launch into a herding manuever -- but I've seen "the crouch" in dogs of all breeds when they see a potential doggie pal approaching. My Labrador, Dakota, crouches when she is plotting a play-ambush on my cattledog, Forrest -- he pretends not to see her until she is on top of him! I think Dakota imagines herself a lion in the tall grass of the Serengeti, and Forrest is a gazelle. Smile

Watch your rescue dog's body language -- if she gets along well with other dogs in off-leash situations, try to arrange some on-leash introductions with a few dogs you know are well-socialized, and see what happens. Remember to keep leashes very loose so that the dogs can carry out their normal circling/sniffing/greeting behaviors on-leash. Tight leashes cause frustration that can lead to aggressive behaviors. Check out www.missiondog.com -- we will have our new e-book, Dog-Dog Introductions, available within a month. It's full of useful tips for successful canine encounters!

Elizabeth Marsden, CPDT
Certified Pet Dog Trainer
and Behavior Consultant

Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 2:32 pm Post subject:

I seem to have hit a wall in the rehabilitation of my older shy dog.

Background: He had come from a hoarder, pretty much had lived in a cage for the first five years of his life, and had spent about 3 months in a foster home when I adopted him. He was very, very timid and his fear response was to run, not aggress. If he couldn't run, he'd just shut down. We gave him a dog bed in a fairly central area of the house, but did not crate him. He pretty much treated his bed as his kennel... didn't leave it (except to go out) for about two weeks, and then, only to come and be with us while we watched t.v. He was a little more confident in the yard after about a week, but it took him about 3-4 months to play with me in it.

In the two years I've had him, he's come out of his shell quite a bit. He's the picture of confidence in his yard or in his house, even gives an alarm-bark at a strange noise or sight - not a frightened bark, but a "HEY!" sort of bark.

He has an energetic and affectionate (some would say "needy") sister who LOVES people, LOVES dogs, LOVES cats, LOVES... well, you get the idea. She's helped him see that it's ok to approach strangers, which he will now slink up to for a pet, if they don't move suddenly.

But... he still has an immediate and long-lasting "flight" response to even the least little unexpected thing. He's come up from his original defensive crouch-and-scuttle on our walks, as long as nothing unusual is going on, But the minute there's a sound he didn't expect, it's tail between the legs and scuttle away time. The last major one (a big bang nearby when a roofer dropped something off the house we were walking by) took him three months to get over. (I.e., for three months on our walks he was back to crouch-scuttle-try to go back home for the whole walk.)

I've tried taking him on the same route every day. I've tried taking him on different routes. I've tried arranging friendly folks & dogs to meet him frequently on our walk. I've tried walking him every day, and walking him only a few times a week. Nothing has gotten him past this point. Can you suggest anything?

Liz's Answer
Kudos to you for all you have accomplished with this dog! I'm figuring he's now almost 8 years old, and his history is grim -- five years in a cage in a hoarder's house with no habituation to real life, and if he was born there or grew up there from puppyhood, the decks were already stacked against his development into a socialized dog. So, pat yourself on the back right now that he is relaxed and happy in your home and yard!

I'd ask whether he really needs to go on walks at this point, since they seem to stress him out so much. He may well be able to live a satisfying life in the house and yard, especially if he shows no signs of boredom-related behaviors (destructiveness, self-mutilation, etc). Enrichment for a dog who doesn't get out much can come in the form of lots of interesting chewies, scent games and play in the comfort of his home/yard sanctuary. Teaching him some easy backyard agility moves are also a great way to give him some extra exercise and fun! Visit www.missiondog.com where we will soon have several e-books available with a plethora of ideas for enrichment in the form of activities, games and training.

The main problem with trying to habituate or counter-condition a dog who is fearful of any noise or sudden change in environment is that you can't control what goes on in the big wide world of walks in the neighborhood. Your example of roofers dropping a load of loud materials on the ground and causing a 3-month setback in progress is a great example. If his fear was of something specific that you could introduce gradually, in a controlled way, at a distance, and work on that one thing (or things) systematically, you would have a fair chance at success. If noises rather than sights are his main "trauma trigger", there are some great desensitization CDs worth checking out -- the Sounds Good series by Legacy Canine -- just Google them. They may offer a degree of habituation progress on their own, and could help further if you decided to work on the problem with an experienced trainer or behaviorist as a coach. But I feel strongly that your boy can have a completely happy ending by just staying put and loving his safe, predictable home with his angel adopter!

Elizabeth Marsden, CPDT
Certified Pet Dog Trainer
and Behavior Consultant

Karen's reply

Thank you so much for your response! I've been trying to walk him - as you correctly surmised - to give him some "enrichment activities," but also to help make the necessary trips "out of his sanctuary" - to the vet or groomers, for instance - less unusual (and therefore less stressful). He does stand by the fence and bark at things in the big wide world beyond it (people walking by, the dog across the street in HIS yard, etc.) so it seems he has some interest in "out there." And he does get excited when I get his harness out, so I think he likes the idea of going for a walk, it's the actual events on the walk that make it a good or bad experience. And he does seem to generally enjoy the walk now... while his tail still hasn't returned to the "flag" position it had before The Incident - and he hasn't marked on the walk since then, which he was doing regularly before it - his tail and head are generally in a relaxed position... unless something happens.

I'll check out the desensitization CDs, and watch for the e-books on your site. Based on your advice, I'll also reduce the walks to just a couple times a week and try to find ways to add more desensitization and mental challenges to his "safe" place (without making him view it as "less safe"). Because, up until The Incident, everything he's been able to handle on the walk, he learned to handle in his yard, first. I.e., harnessing up, meeting strangers, having unusual things (lawn furniture, garden tools and suchlike) "appear" and "disappear," in various places, etc.

Thank you again!

Karen

Further info from Liz
Hey there Karen, your post gave me another idea -- definitely a weekly or bi-weekly short trip to the vet or groomer (during a not-too-busy time if possible). All you would do is walk in, sit down, feed him something amazing if he'll eat it (I'm talking roast beef or something equally yummy). Feed him tiny bits slowly to change his mind about what it means to be there. If the staff will let you, take him into an exam room or grooming area, put him on the table and continue feeding him, maybe a little brushing or ear inspection, too. That's it! If he will eat really good food rewards on walks (not milk bones or puperoni, but real, good, food -- tiny bits of meat and cheese) then carry that with you. You can begin to feed him in the presence of anything that might be scary. Of course the noises come up so fast that you can't very often react in the nick of time (unless you know, for example, that a bus is going to apply its brakes and that squealing noise is a trigger). If you do see a trigger coming, lay on the treats and praise as soon as the dog notices the scary thing, but try not to wait until the dog has already begun to fall apart. This is a very overly-simplified description of desensitization and counter-conditioning exercises you could do -- again, even one session with a good trainer could help you hone in on some specifics. Check www.ccpdt.org or www.iaabc.org for trainer referrals. Good luck!

Elizabeth Marsden, CPDT
Certified Pet Dog Trainer
and Behavior Consultant

Further More Wink

from Karen

Sadly, he's too anxious to take even his favorite treats when he's out and about. He went through an 8-week basic obedience class at a PetSmart , and came to see the training room as at least a semi "safe" place by the time it ended - we'd come in the door and he'd scuttle through the crowd, heading straight for the room, then relax quite a bit when we got there. And passed with nearly-flying colors (wouldn't do the agility tunnel). But he still would never take a treat there. (Luckily, he's affection-motivated, though, so a soft "good boy" with a pet helped reward him vor being such a very good boy!) But nothing really relaxes him when he's "out" - attention/affection just gets him past the worst of it so he can continue on instead of shutting down.

Definitely going to check with the vet and groomers to see if we can come "visit" frequently. Thank you again!

Asking this for a friend who just wanted one question asked. LOL. She just adopted a collie mix from her Humane Society that she has named Brandy. The shelter stated the dog was surrendered due to house breaking issues. So she expected problems there. However the dog has been a housebreaking genius, one mess the first day and nothing since. She is about 1.5yrs old and very very sweet. The issue that she has discovered with Brandy is separation anxiety. She gave her free reign of the house at first when she would make short trips to the store, bad idea..chewed the arm of the couch, scratched the back of the door all up. She HAD screens on the interior of the windows. Well that was enough for her to buy a crate. Now the issue is getting her in the crate and her behavior once in the crate. First, there is a lot of opposition to the crate. She has tried putting a toy, a treat and never ever yells at her, but it basically ends up with her having to lead her in by pulling a leash through the back. Once in the crate the dog cries like crazy. She thought that would be it and could deal with that since she hoped the dog would tired herself out and give up, but now Brandy is chewing her feet, has rubbed her nose so raw it was bleeding etc. My friend has a business she runs from her home, but cannot always take Brandy with her when she leaves. She doesn't want to 'dope her up' as she calls it as the vet recommended, so was hoping we might be able to gather some other hints for her here. Thanks!
Cary

Liz's Answer
Brandy's separation anxiety sounds pretty severe, and one thing is certain -- it won't get better without very specific behavior modification. There is so much involved with treating Sep Anx that there isn't space here to write about it. The veterinarian suggested using a sedative when Brandy has to be crated or left alone; that is, admittedly, a spot-treat sort of solution if the sedative is effective and Brandy doesn't have to be left alone very often or for very long. Of course, drugs can have side effects but so, too, can chronic stress and self-mutilation. There are many non-drug modalities that are reported to help while behavior modification takes place -- herbal, holistic, t-touch, even light therapy, but Brandy needs relief now and finding practitioners in a given area might take time. www.wholedogjournal.com is a good resource for checking out alternative therapies.

Getting back to basics, if I were Brandy's mom, I would immediately seek out a qualified, experienced behaviorist or trainer to help set up a behavior modification protocol -- two great places to start would be www.ccpdt.org or www.iaabc.org -- both organizations require certification based on solid experience and knowledge. The best all-around, easy to use booklet out there on Sep Anx and trying to treat it without hands-on professional guidance is I'll Be Home Soon by Dr. Patricia McConnell.

Elizabeth Marsden, CPDT
Certified Pet Dog Trainer
and Behavior Consultant

Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 9:19 am Post subject: larger dog too rough

Hi Liz! Thanks for being here! I have two dogs, one is very large recently adopted and one large as well but smaller than the new guy. The new guy is actually still a puppy and weighs about 150lbs. He loves his buddy but when they go outside and are barking and excited he does this bitey thing on her back and sometimes she yelps. I can tell he is not doing it to be agressive but maybe dominant playful. How can I get him to stop though? I tried letting her out first , but she waits for him since she is so attached to him already she does not like to go out without him now, and when he catches up to her he does it again. I just don't want him to hurt her accidentally or perhaps think that it is ok to do and one day get a little miffed and think it is ok to do that and really hurt her. Any suggestions? He is a real lovey dog and adores his new sister, he is just a little rough.

Liz's Answer
Whoa -- 150 pounds?! What breed or mix? The rough play you describe is just his play style I think -- the fact that your female sometimes yelps says that your big guy has not developed very good bite inhibition, though. Puppies get most of their feedback and learning (about how hard is too hard to bite, even in play) from their mothers and littermates, which is just one of the many reasons experts think they should stay in the litter longer -- 9 weeks is an acceptable age. After they leave the litter, it helps for pups to have a regularly-scheduled variety of puppy playdates with pups of various ages, sizes and playstyles. I am not talking about a public dog park -- too much can go wrong for a young pup there -- but a well-run puppy group, maybe hosted by a trainer, a vet's office, or a doggy daycare.

All this to say that your boy may have missed a chapter or two -- maybe he was removed from the litter too soon, maybe his mom wasn't a very good teacher, and maybe he is just going to need some more feedback from other dogs. How old is he? When he bites too hard and your female yelps, what does he do? If he backs off as if startled and stops the rough play for the time being, that is a very good sign. If he doesn't, then you will have to step in, because things can go downhill as time wears on. (What "stepping in" means is another conversation, if needed....) I'd also think about setting up some meet and greet sessions with well-socialized dogs close to his age and of various play styles, as well as some mature dogs (4-6 years old and socialized, of a variety of genders) who can give him the much-needed feedback that only other dogs can. It would be nice to have the assistance of a professional, positive trainer or other experienced person to help with all this, since it can be a little tricky to make sure no one gets scared or hurt in the process of his continuing education. Check out www.missiondog.com -- we will have our new book, Dog-Dog Introductions, available soon!

Elizabeth Marsden, CPDT
Certified Pet Dog Trainer
and Behavior Consultant

Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 8:10 am Post subject:

I realize I created this problem myself but I'm hoping you can help us "undo" it. (If not, it's something we can live with.)

Lacey is a 9 year old GSD permanent foster who was pulled from a shelter Dec. 2007. She spent the first week with us home with my oldest. Then I was home for 2 weeks. She decided she was mine. She spent every moment with me - following me all day, sleeping next to my side of the bed at night.

Fast forward - the males (hubby, kids 20, 19 & 11 y.o.) could drop off the face of the planet & she wouldn't notice. They feed her, take her for walks, give treats, etc. She only pays attention as long as I'm not there. If I'm not home she will mope in her bed all day - despite being surrounded by people. The minute I appear she latches onto mom. She's here forever so it would be nice if I could get her to pay some attention to the boys. Any suggestions?
Thanks!

Liz's Answer
It can be more than flattering when a dog makes you the center of the universe. It's not your fault, though -- you may have been the first person who ever gave Lacey good care, structure, and reliability in her entire life, and she is going to repay you with endless adoration....but I get that it can be a little like living with a furry stalker!

You wrote that she goes for walks, eats, and even accepts treats from the guys in your house (I am assuming this is when you are not home, from what you wrote). So, it's a functional situation and if she were truly depressed, she would likely refuse food and exercise when her favorite person was gone. The fact that she chooses to hang out with you and not them when she can, although annoying, doesn't sound too abnormal considering the circumstances. If she is literally underfoot and/or getting anxious when you leave the room or the house (does she do either?) then it would indicate a problem worth working on (for her sake as well as yours)! It would help to know if she is simply following you from room to room and then settling comfortably, or if she is standing outside the bathroom door whining when you take a shower! Arrgh!

In either case, there are steps you could try to get her less into you and more into the guys. If they were willing, you could have her take turns sleeping in their rooms instead of yours. If she has a dog bed she uses, put the bed in one of their rooms, and give her an incredibly yummy bedtime "pacifier" to help keep her mind off the fact that she is not with you. My suggestions for this would be a raw, frozen beef marrow bone or a Kong toy stuffed with some canned dog food and peanut butter, then frozen. Some chomping sounds will ensue, so the person in the experiment will have to put up with that! Some dogs adore Bully Sticks or Pizzles (she is getting up there in years, so experiment to find out what if any of these she will chew. Merrick (a food and treat company) makes a chewy called Grandpaws that's for older dogs who can't handle harder chewies; you might try those -- look online. You could also stuff the Kong but not freeze it.

This same trick can be used to keep her from constantly shadowing you, if that is what she's doing. Use a 4-foot leash and tether her on her dog bed to a heavy piece of furniture in another room with a great treat to settle with. (Of course let her up as soon as she finishes with the chewy). As the days go on and she gets a special long-lasting chewy only while relaxing in a room while you are somewhere else, you ought to see a gradual preference for her hanging out away from you and lessening the following-you-around behavior. If the guys are willing to casually walk by whenever she's on her bed and give her anything she loves, like a belly rub session, a tidbit of hotdog, or her favorite rubber squeaky, this would help, too.

This next part is going to sound tough (and remember it's only if putting a dent in her "stalking" is more important to you than the guilt you may experience from feeling like an Ice Queen)! If the rest of the family is on board, you can try a one-month trial of completely ignoring Lacey and having them truly provide for all her comforts -- I am assuming that when you are home, you talk to her, pet her, maybe give her treats, something? You could try to go all the way and stop all attention -- and the rest of your family could take up all the slack, if they were willing to give it a shot. If you see improvement, you can work your way back into normalcy.

I am not sure what kind of physical condition Lacey is in (9 is getting up in years for a German shepherd), but as with any dog, the more she has to do, the less energy she has to expend on being clingy and anxious. So, longer hikes, games that get her to think (an easy one is teaching a dog to "find" her dinner by hiding the kibbles around the living room). The game (assuming she likes her kibbles enough to find them) could be a good way for the guys to bump up their status as "people worth hanging out with", to boot. To teach her, simply start by teaching her a sit/stay in the middle of a room, and the first few times, let her see you "hide" each little handful of kibble behind a chair, under a table, etc. Then, release her and say excitedly, "go find it!" If she gets into this, you can make the game more challenging by sending her out of the room to do the sit/stay first, then hiding the food under things like baskets or phone books so she has to sniff them out.

It really is never too late for a dog to learn, and a tricks class or agility for fun (if she can do it), would be a great way for someone other than you to form a bond with Lacey. Anything that is taught using rewards and not punishments is going to foster that bond. There are tons of great books at www.dogwise.com on teaching tricks, and doggie sports like tracking and scenting, that can give you more ideas on keeping her mind and body active.

One last note of encouragement: I, too, have a former "Shadow" in my house. Her name is Lily and she came to me from a shelter at around age 4, and believe me, it was like a cheesy love song -- she really thought I was the best thing that ever happened to her! It is only in the past year that she's finally stopped following me from from room to room (I just let her do it, it wasn't too much trouble), and she now hangs out a lot more with my fiance' Steve, even when I am home. Why? He has the best belly rubs in the house. (Shhh! I don't want the secret to get out!! Smile

Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:30 am Post subject: Adopting!

We are adopting a dog today. We have visited the shelter several times, they let us bring her home to see how she would be with our cat etc and we are thrilled! We have picked up bowls, food, leash, collar, toys etc...however...two things about her we need to know the basics on...
The shelter told us she was brought there because she chewed and had trouble housebreaking. I have a part time job and my husband works full time, but she will only be home 4hrs at a time tops by herself. This is our first dog ever. My husband never had a dog or any pet but loves them and I was only allowed a cat growing up. So we have been reading, a lot, but I would love to have your advice as well. Thanks!
Connie

Liz's Answer
Congratulations on your new dog! You didn't say her age, but the older she is, the more difficult it may be to housetrain. But by no means impossible! You never know what errors were made in her past, and many dogs get completely baffled by where they are supposed to go. People still do silly, cruel things like rubbing the poor dog's face in pee and poop, and even hitting them with newspapers. The lack of knowledge is sometimes staggering, so good for you doing your research and trying to do everything you can to get off to a great start. Unfortunately, the differences in books and DVDs and TV shows on dog training is also staggering! I am going to recommend two excellent books on housetraining and puppy raising, although there are hundreds of great titles out there. You can't go wrong with Dr. Ian Dunbar. Try Before You Get Your Puppy, and After You Get Your Puppy, both the last word on that! His other very helpful book is called How To Teach a New Dog Old Tricks, and it is great. step by step and funny, and if it was the only book you ever got on raising your dog, you'd be all set!

Chewing is usually just a result of teething and puppy-ness, but destructive chewing around doorways and windows when you leave a dog alone is an indication of separation anxiety. If your dog is really a pup (under 18 months or so), assume first that she is just a pup who likes to chew. In fact, if she is under 5 years she probably still likes to chew! Your secret weapons will be a Kong or other durable hollow toy that you can stuff with her food, and a couple of hard, hollow beef marrow bones (available at pet stores and online) that you can also stuff with her food. By giving her a task every time she eats (getting the food out of the hollow bone or toy), you will be giving her an outlet for all that chewing energy and at the same time showing her what is hers to chew on.

I like to make up a batch of dry dog food, a little canned dog food for taste and stickiness, and add a blob or two of peanut butter for even more taste and stickiness, and keep that in the fridge. Then, I stuff the toys using a butter knife and they're ready for the dog's meals each day. Once she gets the hang of it, you can start putting the stuffed bones and toys in the freezer (so they last longer). Unless she is a yorkie/bichon/chihuahua, this plan should solve the chewing issue -- some toy dogs just don't seem to get into this working thing! An extra tip: make sure you get the right size bones/Kongs/etc for the size of the dog. A rule of thumb is that the bone/toy should be about the length of the dog's muzzle.

OK, houstetraining! Please refer to the post above (from Doggyrama) for some real nitty-gritty details. The basics are: 1. Crate-train so you can succeed. The crate should be the dog's bed and safe place to hang out when you aren't watching her, including at night. To help the dog feel better about crating, have her leep in a crate next to your bed, settled in with a nice chewy. Bring the crate downstairs to the kitchen or family room during the day so you can leave the door of the crate open and toss in every single treat, food-stuffed toy, and anything good she gets -- I like to take a huge shortcut and start tossing tiny pieces of hotdog into the crate, over and over, like a game -- letting the dog run in, get the treat, run out, repeat....and finally having the dog settle on a blanket in there and chew a bone or kong as I close the door for a few minutes.

2. Take the dog outside once an hour while you are home! Have some tiny treats ready in your pocket. Stand in a quiet "bathroom" spot with the dog on a long leash, and don't say anything! Wait. As soon as she goes, treat, praise, but especially treat! Go for a walk or walk around a bit more to see if she has any more to do. Or come back inside if she is finished. The more you give her a chance to get it right and get rewards, the faster she will catch on! Once she has the idea, the once an hour can go to once every two, three, etc. If she is older than six months and has no medical issues, she ought to be able to learn to "hold it" for 8 hours with no problem -- unless she is a yorkie/bichon/chihuahua (sorry, but the toys have to go more often)!

3. The basic advice you got from all your reading about taking her out as soon as she wakes up, before bed, as soon as you get home are all accurate of course! If she is under 4 months old, I'd add setting an alarm clock for the middle of the night so you can just get this over with once and for all (see, again, doggyrama post above...)

Good luck to you! Enjoy...

Posting for a member

BusyD01
Joined: 21 Sep 2008
Total posts: 49
Gender: Unknown Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:46 pm
Post subject: Rescued/Foster dog biting. Desperate for help!

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Two months ago, we started fostering a rescue Jack/Mix. He was very nervous from the start. He would shake and then nip/bite if someone else went to pick him up. For example if my husband was holding him and I would try to pet him, he would shake and then nip/bite the person who wanted to pet him. We learned the proper way to do this. Not look him in the eye, not go for the top of the head etc. His behavior has continued.
If he is with any memeber of our family and someone else tries to pick him up or pet him, he bites. Today, my daughter needed to pick him up (she was alone) and put him in his crate so she could go to college, he bit her. I am at my wits end. I don't know what to do about this behavior. No one is going to want to adopt a dog who bites nor should they. PLEASE HELP!

He is neutered (was before he was at the pound) is approx. 4 years of age. Gets along with other dogs etc.

Liz's Answer
I am so sorry to hear this! The behavior does sound entrenched, and has a specific trigger (being picked up) and you are right that it's neither fair nor good policy to adopt out a dog who is a known biter. You didn't say whether he has broken skin or the level of bites he is inflicting, which is a factor -- some dogs will repeatedly air-snap or muzzle-punch and never inflict a single scratch -- others will puncture repeatedly and you can predict what they will do the next time. Since he is 4 years old (as opposed to 4 months) it's a given that he will need intensive behavior modification if he is going to able to live with the average adopter. Most people don't like to be even growled at or air-snapped at, no matter how wonderful the dog might be otherwise.

The rescue or shelter he is from may or may not have done a temperament evaluation before placing him with you for foster, but that process uncovers most biting behavior before hearts are broken and dogs are passed around from place to place. Have you contacted the shelter/rescue for help? They should definitely be involved, and either they have a qualified trainer to take the dog on, or they don't and they have to take a look at the overall well-being of the dog and his potential as a pet -- not to mention the shelter's and your liability, public relations issues (if he is adopted out and bites/seriously injures someons), and the emotional concerns of you, their fosters. I feel that the responsibility lies with them, not with you as a foster provider.

I am sorry that I can't give any detailed advice on a specific case of biting in this forum, but I hope that helped. If you decide to take this dog on as a behavior project yourself, the best two sources to find a qualified trainer are www.ccpdt.org and www.iaabc.org

I hope for the best, wish I could do more...

Elizabeth Marsden, CPDT
Certified Pet Dog Trainer
and Behavior Consultant

Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 11:29 am Post subject:

I know "time's up" but I hope Liz checks back.

I just wanted to say thanks for all the ideas. We're going to try some starting today. It would really be nice to go to the bathroom without her crying outside the door. Maybe even ask one of the guys to let her out when they are already letting Murphy out instead of searching the house for me. Who knows, I might even be able to stand up without tripping over her - that would be a big help!

Thanks again!

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