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Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:55 am Post subject:

Smelly breath...food or something more? He is only about three years old.

Expert's Answers:

It could possibly be teeth issues or an infection in the mouth. It could also be something else.
You should definitely consider taking your pet to their veterinarian for a work-up to rule out anything.

Debby Williams
Veterinary Services Manager
Erie County SPCA

Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:56 am Post subject:

how on earth do i get this cat, 5 months old, to use a litter box? he goes right beside it.. ive tried lots of things.. im to the point of finding him a new home.

Expert's Answers:

Hi there,

I know how frustrating this can be - and we definitely want to find a solution so you and your kitty can remain happy roommates together!

Can you give me a little more info about your cat and household? What type of litter and litter box are you using? Where is the litter box located? Other pets in the household? Do your kitten urinate or defecate outside of the box, or both? Is is always alongside the box or does he frequent other areas in your household as well?

Dr. Stephanie Janeczko
Medical Director
Animal Care & Control of New York City

Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:57 am Post subject:

I have a 3 year old Shep Mix that shows SEVERE aggression towards other dogs. She was bitten as a 4 month old pup, and I really didn't socialize her with other dogs after that. Could the bite, the lack of socialization, or both be the cause of her fear aggression?

Expert's Answers:

Hi MaryAnn, you guessed exactly right. That combo of elements is the reason your dog is aggressive. Has SHE ever actually bitten another dog or had any altercations WITHOUT doing damage since the initial bite she sustained? Is this issue causing a quality of life consideration -- have you given up walking her or taking her places? Or is she OK as long as the other dogs don't get too close? There are some really great classes out there for reactive dogs if you'd like to explore that -- some private one on one training can help too and there are some wonderful videos and books on this topic -- everyone should check out www.dogwise.com for a shopping paradise on dog behavior and training. If you have more details or questions just ask!

Liz Marsden
MissionDog.com

Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:58 am Post subject:

My Siamese kitty is 9 months old and was spayed approx. a month ago. She has just developed two swollen nipples, side-by-side, in the last few days. She was also just recently diagnosed with ringworms. Is there any correlation? If not, what could be causing the swelling? Thanks! >^..^<

Expert's Answers:

Hi Rhonda: Ringworm is a common cat disease and is caused by a fungus and not a true worm. Its name is derived from the lesion having a red circle at the outer edge.
Nipple swelling is fairly uncommon in spayed females. However, if her body had gone through a heat close to the time of the spay, her body may have hormonal changes that make her think she is pregnant. There are also cystic lesions that can occur. The last item would be a inflammation called mastitis that can occur(2 weeks ago we had it occur in one of our technicians cats). Ringworm rarely can cause lesions beneath the skin so I think you are likely dealing with 2 different problems.

Dr. Grant Gugisberg
Parkview Cat Clinic

Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:00 am Post subject:

Hello Dr. Grant.... My Cat was not feeling well last week and after he was feeling better he seems to not have a voice... It is coming back somewhat but what caused this?

Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:02 am Post subject:

Hi! We Have two adult kitties (13 and 4 - both adopted) and recently adopted an adult dog from our local shelter who seems to be about 2 or 3 yrs. The dog just can't seem to break that dog/cat stereotype and loves to chase the cats! We have the cats in our bedroom behind a gate but ultimately would LOVE to have them all together. Can't we all just get along? Smile

Any suggestions? Thank you so much!

Expert's Answers:

A basic obedience class will be your best bet or a couple of in-home sessions with a private trainer. It is not unusual for a dog to want to chase another moving animal, no matter what kind it is. Your dog needs to learn to sit and down/"emergency drop" on cue as well as 'Leave it" (BREAK EYE CONTACT ON/WITH) for the safety and comfort of your cats. During the learning period, he should probably wear a house lead, so you can insure their safety and help increase compliance. Also make sure to click and treat him when he's in the room and a cat moves, but he doesn't take chase. Always remember rewarded behavior increases in frequency. If it is more rewarding to watch than it is to chase, you should see watching increase and chasing decrease. This will probably happen over time to a certain degree as their novelty wears off.

Also remember that until you really know who this dog is, do not leave the three of them alone in the same space together. The dog's arousal could go over the top to aggression and you don't want to come home to a deadly scenario.

I am assuming that your dog is just chasing in a playful manner and not trying to grab, shake and kill. If the latter is the case, you have a very dangerous situation on your hands. You then definitely need to work with an experienced professional trainer or behaviorist and even then you may have no other choice but to re-home the dog into a cat-free environment.

Good luck!

Jacque Schultz, MA CPDT-KA
ASPCA Community Initiatives

Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:03 am Post subject:

Hi from Amy... I have a cat who is 12. I've been told she is in good health but she is slower than she used to be and sleeps more. Should I be concerned? Is there anything I can do to help her live the longest, healthiest life possible?

Expert's Answers:

Hi Amy,

What you are describing is not uncommon in older kitties and could be indicative of any number of conditions... cats are truly the masters of disguise and often the first and sometimes only sign that something might be wrong is they sleeping more.

I'm glad to hear that you've been told she is in good health. Is she eating and drinking normally? Urinating and defecating normally? Has she had any screening bloodwork done? This can be helpful in establishing a baseline and looking for early changes that might need to be addressed. One thing that does come to mind from your description though (and that you would want to discuss with your vet) is that your kitty might have arthritis... arthritis can be challenging to diagnose in cats and they seldom show us the obvious signs like limping that most dogs do. This is one reason that arthritis is generally under-diagnosed in cats, but the discomfort that causes it could be a reason for your cat slowing down and sleeping more. The good news is that there are medications and diet changes to help with arthritis in older cats, if that is the case.

Dr. Stephanie Janeczko
Medical Director
Animal Care & Control of New York City

Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:05 am Post subject:

Hi Dr. Grant- I have a 12 year old, neutered adult, indoor only kitty and I can't rid of his watery eyes, sneezing and coughing.. I've tried lysine supplements, numerous rounds of clavamox and amoxi and although it gets better- it always comes back. Any thoughts? Thank you!

Expert's Answers:

Hi There,

I know this question was addressed to Dr. Grant but I will jump in and share my 2 cents with you as well Smile

Although I can't diagnose anything without seeing your kitty, it generally sounds like he could be a "chronic snuffler" and/or repeat herpes kitty... how long has this been going on for?

There are some cats that seem to have a hard time really keeping herpes under control - herpes is a lifelong infection that generally goes into hiding but comes out in times of stress (think cold sores in people). For some cats, they seem to continually show signs and in other cats they just are very sensitive to stress and have frequent flare-ups. The term "chronic snuffler" is used for that cats that have prolonged URI signs... these cats can be very challenging to manage although I have had some good success with individual cases and I am at least a little encouraged that your kitty seems to improve with medication. Ideally other causes of chronic nasal discharge and sneezing should be ruled out through testing (just to be sure that nothing is being overlooked), and from what you are describing I think it would be a good idea to get some chest x-rays and a few other tests done for your cat because of the coughing. Unlike in dogs there actually aren't that many things that make a cat cough, so when I hear someone say that it always rings a little bell in my head.

Anyways, assuming that your kitty doesn't have something else going on and he is a chronic snuffler with herpes flare-ups there are some other treatment options out there. Stress reduction, treatment of any other underlying diseases, good nutrition, and environmental enrichment are all important for getting the signs under control. In terms of specific drugs, I will often use an antibiotic like doxycycline for these cases, for a prolonged period of time - it seems that the chronic nature of the infection actually leads to a more deep-seated infection in the nasal cavity that can involve the cartilage. In my experience one of the biggest reasons for treatment failure is stopping the medication too quickly... we are usually talking about several weeks or even a few months here, but I base how long to treat partially on how long the cat has been symptomatic for and partially on how long it takes for them to look normal once starting the meds. Lysine can be helpful in certain cases although this seems to be most applicable to cats with chronic eye problems. Another drug option that is sometimes used successfully is interferon, and in some cases antiviral medications become necessary as well.

So - you definitely want to discuss treatment options with your regular veterinarian to come up with a plan that works for all of you, and depending on the details of your cat's case you might even want to consider a referral to a specialist. But I wouldn't give up just yet (which is why I mentioned most of the details that I did above) - good luck!

Dr. Stephanie Janeczko
Medical Director
Animal Care & Control of New York City

Cat Question: Do you recommend any particular type of food or dietary supplements for FIV+ cats?

Hamster Question: I have a young (less than 6 months) male hamster who recently started drinking/peeing a lot. I have heard diabetes is not uncommon in dwarf hamsters, but that there is no treatment? Could it be anything else? His skin is also a bit red and he is itchy, but there do not appear to be mites (although I have treated him using the witch hazel/Listerine/Water recipe just in case).

Expert's Answers:

Hello,

I will answer the hamster question first... I would definitely suggest taking your little guy to see a vet who has experience with small mammals. You are correct that diabetes is relatively common in certain types of hamsters but there a many other other causes of increased water consumption and urination - other endocrine problems, kidney problems, etc.

As for your FIV question I don't have a specific diet or supplement that I recommend, but regular veterinary visits and preventive care and important to keep these kitties healthy. If they do become sick with even something routine they made need to be treated differently (for example, a longer course of antibiotics). Feeding a good quality diet, stress reduction, treatment of any other concurrent diseases, and regular monitoring and treatment/prevention for fleas, internal parasites, and heartworm would all be high on my list.

Dr. Stephanie Janeczko
Medical Director
Animal Care & Control of New York City

Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:11 am Post subject: two homes

I'm hoping to adopt an adult dog soon, after wanting a dog my entire life. I'm just not sure if my lifestyle would be unfair to a dog. I spend about 5 nights a week at my house, and 2 nights a week at my boyfriend's house. He and I both want a dog (it would be my dog though, that we've made clear). We will have everything the dog will need in both homes, and my dog is welcome to stay at my boyfriends house.

Is it too much to ask a rescue dog to not just adjust to one new home, but two? Are there any types of dogs I should avoid? Such as, if a dog has anxiety problems, would he be one that would have a tougher time adjusting to two homes?

Expert's Answers:

Look for an out-going, social adolescent (6-18/24 months of age) who will have the best chance at adapting to your situation. If this is your normal schedule, a dog with good coping skills should acclimate pretty quickly. For many dogs, as long as they are with their people, the location is immaterial. If you are willing to take on a medium to large size dog and to consider the plain, black dog or perhaps a brindle terrier mix, you will probably find a number of good, family dogs to choose from. If you like a fancy coat or a petite size, the competition will be higher and it may take a little longer to find that good fit. However, there is regional diversity throughout the US, so perhaps that doesn't apply to your community.

The dog who is having trouble coping at the shelter may have more difficulty with your situation or just may take longer to get comfortable with the schedule. However, it is likely sharing two homes is still less stressful than staying at a shelter.

Just make sure to consider your whole lifestyle and don't get too hung up on just this one piece of it when considering who will make the best fit for your family. Dogs are amazingly adaptable and with time and training can learn to be comfortable in many situation.

Jacque Schultz, MA CPDT-KA
ASPCA Community Initiatives

Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:09 pm Post subject:

I am thinking of getting pets in addition to my dwarf rabbit. I have had other pets before (guinea pig, chinchilla, ferret) at different points in time. My question is do any of these pets tend to get along better than others? I like to give them plenty of out of cage time and would like it if everyone could get along.

Expert's Answers:

My expertise is rabbits and limited on the other animals you mentioned, so maybe someone else will chime in as well. My two cents -

Rabbits are social creatures and would likely enjoy the company of another furry friend. However, introducing a new animal is not always easy. If you are open to it, I'd suggest considering another rabbit to be a companion to your current rabbit. They could keep each other company while you are at work, asleep, etc. Plus, there is really nothing like the cuteness of watching them cuddle and groom each other. The kicker is getting two single bunnies to become friends is a fair amount of work and takes time (although I'm sure that is true to some degree with all introductions between animals, regardless of species). I'd suggest reading more on the bonding process starting here: http://www.mn.companionrabbit.org/rabbit/care/behavior/bonding.html. I'd also suggest seeing if there is a rabbit group or shelter in your area that can help you with introductions. We recommend the equivalent of 'speed dating' for rabbits to meet a series of potential companions and narrow it down to the ones most compatible.

If you'd rather have a different species than rabbit, there are pros/cons to those choices as well. Ferrets are natural predators to rabbits and I've not heard of anyone who has both and is able to let them play together. GPs and rabbits can make good companions, but rabbits are bigger and can inadvertently injure a GP. Plus, GP lovers will tell you that rabbits are carriers for something that can be fatal to GPs. However, having said that, I know of several people that have successfully had rabbit/GP combos - including one that was a Flemish Giant/GP, and the GP was The Boss! Smile

I don't know enough about chinchillas to comment on whether they could potentially play together.

Another potential companion to consider is a cat. Yes, cats are also predators, but many housecats get along quite well with rabbits. I live with two cats and four rabbits - all get along fine. For some real-life stories of introducing cats to rabbits: http://www.catmeetsbunny.blogspot.com.

Whatever type of animal you get, you need to expect there will be an introductory period where you need to supervise very closely and perhaps even teach the animals how to interact appropriately. The success of an interspecies home is a factor of the individual animals and the humans involved. Not every cat/GP/etc will live successfully with a rabbit and vice versa. But many can be successful with the right direction and suitable time to get to know each other. Whatever ou do, don't just assume any two animals will get along and don't be surprised if whatever animal you choose ends up being bossed around by your dwarf rabbit, either.

Good luck!
Joanna Campbell
MCRS President
www.MN.CompanionRabbit.org

Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:11 pm Post subject:

My dog always hesitates and shy's away from being handed treats. It is almost as if she is afraid of it but I know she loves her treats! She even watches the clock for treat time. There are no known fear issues associated with the treat time so I am at a loss as to why she does this. I have to place the treat on the floor and back up before she happily pounces on her treats. Is there any treatment for this?

Expert's Answers:

I have seen this frequently with retired racing greyhounds who probably didn't get treats handed to them until they entered an adoption program. My own dog has a suspicion about treats handed to him by anyone but me -- especially if they are a different texture or flavor than his usual treats -- and while he may take the treat gingerly, he immediately spits it out and investigates it. He was 5 when I adopted him. You don't mention how old your dog was when you got her and where she came from, but since this is the Petfinder Forum, I am going to assume this is a rescue/shelter dog and one who was at least an adolescent when you got her. My guess is that she wasn't handed treats when young and perhaps had her treats doled out by being tossed to the ground, either for convenience sake or to give her something to chase after or "go find."

Try this exercise at treat time. Get her over-the-top most favorite treats. Sit on the floor with your back to her, put a treat in your hand and rest your hand on the floor behind you with palm up and treat exposed. Now wait her out. If she approaches you, quietly acknowledge with Yes or Good and let the treat roll off your hand onto the floor. Load up and repeat. After several times, wait for her to actually sniff your hand before verbally marking the behavior and letting the treat fall from your palm. And then step up to actually expecting her to take it from your palm which is still behind you, so you are not looking at the dog. Once you've got her consistantly taking from your hand behind you, move the hand position to your side -- still while seated on the floor. After several repetitions, bring your hand in front of you. Next begin to raise your hand off the floor by steps. then comes raising your body off the floor -- from sitting on floor to a low stool, higher stool, kneeling, squatting sideways, until you can give her a treat when standing upright and looking at her. This work takes patiences and may take multiple sessions. Each time you begin, go back to where you last had success last.

Good luck!

Jacque Schultz, MA CPDT-KA
ASPCA Community Initiatives

Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:12 pm Post subject:

My female GSD doesn't like riding in the truck/car anymore. I've been taking her to work with me now for about a month. She tends to drool excessivly & sometime pants real hard & fast. She's gotten sick 1x. I do not feed her until I get to work at 9 so she doesn't have anything in her stomach when riding. She's about 11 months old & I've had ... See Moreher for about 1 month. How can I make her comfortable? BTW I've been leaving her in my fenced backyard with our other M GSD now since she hates to ride.

Expert's Answers:

The drooling indicates carsickness, the panting is anxiety over feeling ill although drooling can sometimes be anxiety too. You'll have to go backwards if you want to cure this, and that will mean no more long car rides until you've counter-conditioned her. If she still willingly jumps in the car, great. Have the car parked and just let her jump in and out, rewarding her with favorite treats or a ball being thrown or a tug game etc -- mix it up so lots of fun stuff happens. Do that for a few short sessions (5 minutes). Watch for any sign of anxiety. If you see any, don't move on to the next step until the drooling and panting or whatever anxious behavior is all gone. carsick dogs actually seem to anticipate feeling sick when they even look at an open car door, so this first step in tricky! Once she is happy with hopping in and out of the car, move on to closing the car door and opening it again. Then move on to closing the door and getting in, starting the car, turning it off, starting it again, etc. Next step is rolling it a few feet and turning it off. Get the idea? The first actual drive, once you get to that stage, should be really smooth and just down the street and back. This can take time and is best done over a period of a week or two, but again you have to move at the dog's pace and be able to do a few short sessions a day. One other tip I have is to use a crate (if your dog likes her crate all right) -- a plastic one that she can't see out of is a better choice than a wire one. A crate can make your dog feel more secure than just sitting on a seat or being tethered in a vehicle. There are a few motion sickness remedies you can ask your vet about, also. They work best in conjunction with the training outlined above.

Good luck!

Liz Marsden, CPDT
MissionDog.com

Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:12 pm Post subject:

my grandson is really rough on his family rot puppy,im pretty worried about this,for my grandson,and the pup.is there anything i can say that i haven't to my grandson,i tried to explain,the puppy is just a baby.

Expert's Answers:

Debra,

You don't mention how old your grandson is, so this is a little difficult to answer. We do know that children observe how others handle family pets and handle them in a similar manner. Is there anyone else in the household that may be wrestling with the puppy or handling him roughly who you might get to change their ways, especially when around your grandson? Make sure you always model gentle handling and appropriate play when in the presence of your grandson and the puppy. Engage them in games like fetch or hide the treat or hide and seek, which are child- appropriate and fun.

Also, all beings (human and animal alike) respond to being rewarded for good behavior. You might ask your grandson to show you how to handle, touch, groom and play with the puppy and when he shows you gentle handling skills, praise him and reward him with something he finds valuable -- M&Ms, popcorn, a nickle along with verbal praise. Rewards need to be age appropriate. If he got rewarded for gentle behavior and the puppy was removed from him and put in another room "for a nap" whenever he got too rough, he should catch on quickly.

Good luck!

Jacque Schultz, MA CPDT-KA
ASPCA Community Initiatives
check out the Virtual Pet Behaviorist at www.aspcabehavior.org

I agree completely with everything Jacque said above --- and good for you for being concerned enough to address this before it becomes a problem. One more suggestion might be to contact local animal shelters or agencies and see of they offer humane education for children. Parents will need to start these lessons at home, but sometimes having them repeated by "experts" can help to drive the point home. The Richmond SPCA provided over 17,000 hours of humane education last year, through tours/visits by school groups and scout troops, junior volunteer programs, birthday parties, special events and critter camp summer sessions. In all of those activities, we weave lessons about the proper way to meet and interact with animals (dog and cat bite safety) and the basics of reward-based training. One of the most gratifying things for me is to have kids who seem to already "know" how to stay safe, because they have been to our facility in prevous years/capacities and have internalized the messages. Educating the next generation of pet guardians is a job we should all take take very seriously.

Good luck to you --- and thanks for writing.

Sarah Babcock
Chief of Education and Training
Richmond SPCA

Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:14 pm Post subject:

My border collie/eskie mix just turned 1 a few weeks ago and has all of a sudden decided that he HATES being bathed. Last time (about 6 weeks ago) I tried to just pick him up and bring him into the shower (have a hand held) like I always did and he scratched me badly. I put the leash on and led him in and he was find. Fast forward to yesterday, put the leash on him, brought him into the bathroom and he went nuts and refused to let me bribe, guide or cajole him into the shower. Any suggestions?

Expert's Answers:

Oh dear. How very frustrating. Do you recall anything scary or unpleasant happening during the last successful bath? Do you recall if there was a rubber mat in the shower (since sliding around in a slippery tub or shower can be very scary for dogs)? Any chance someone fussed at the dog or handled him roughly when trying to finish a bath? I only ask because I often think it is the restraint and extra-firm handling that scares dogs during grooming and bathing procedures, more than the procedures themselves. Can you still brush the dog without problems (i.e., without water involved)?

Based on your answers, there might be variations on this theme, but my general suggestion would be to desensitize and countercondition your dog to the bathing process. That's fancy talk for re-introduce him the idea of bathing SLOWLY and change how he feels about it by pairing baths with something really good (like tiny bits of string cheese). Since I suspect your dog has somehow become scared of this process or some portion of it, I would encourage you (or any other bathers) to keep your voice and movements happy and calm, resisting any temptation to fuss at the dog for being difficult. I think dogs pick up on our body language quickly and when we are stressed (for whatever reason), it probably contributes to their stress. It this situation, you want to be communicating to your dog that this bathing business is not-so-bad and that you will prevent him (the dog) from getting hurt or scared. And then of course you want to be sure you can make the process as un-scary and efficient as possible.

Good luck!!
Sarah

Sarah Babcock
Chief of Education and Training
Richmond SPCA

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