Here's what you can expect from your dog's veterinary exams when he is a senior. Check out our guides to what to expect from your puppy's vet trips and your adult dog's visits.

Senior-dog exams
(7 years and older):
The American Veterinary Medical Association recommends that senior dogs see a vet twice a year. But since smaller breeds generally live longer than larger breeds, different dogs are considered "seniors" at different ages. Work with your vet to determine what preventative care is best for your dog as he gets older.

With senior dogs, "blood work becomes increasingly important," veterinarian and Pawcurious blogger Dr. V tell us, "because problems like kidney disease or liver disease may show up on blood work well before the pet is showing clinical signs of disease. Older pets are also often arthritic, and while those signs may be subtle, there is a lot your vet can offer to help your pet age gracefully and comfortably."

Basic senior-dog exams usually include:

• A full physical examination
• Stool check for parasites
• Vaccinations
• Possible heartworm test and preventative
• May also include blood work, radiographs or x-rays, urine testing, and more

Questions to ask the vet:

• Is my dog the right weight?
• Does he need all the vaccines he got when he was younger?
• Are there any side effects of the vaccinations or heartworm preventative?
• Does my dog need a professional dental cleaning or any tooth extractions?
• If a procedure is necessary, what are the risks of anesthesia?
  
• What websites do you recommend as a trusted source of information? (This can be especially important if your pet has just received a new diagnosis.)
• Is my dog slowing down because of age, or could he have arthritis?
• Should my dog go out more frequently to use the bathroom?
  
• Is there anything I can do to help my senior dog get around better?
• Should I change my dog's diet or are there any supplements you'd recommend?
• Is there anything I should be doing to keep my dog comfortable in the summer or winter?
• Is there anything I can do to reduce my dog's risk of cancer? Are there signs I should watch out for?
• When should my dog come back for his next exam?

Learn more about caring for your dog during all stages of his life.

Here's what you can expect from your dog's veterinary exams when she is an adult. Stay tuned for a guide to your senior dog's vet visits, or check out our guide to what to expect from your puppy's vet trips.

Adult-dog exams
(ages 18 months to 7 years):
The American Veterinary Medical Association recommends that adult dogs see the vet at least once a year for regular exams, whether they need vaccinations or not. These exams help your vet keep a record of your dog's normal health and behavior, and catch signs of illness as early as possible.

"In an adult-dog wellness exam, the emphasis is usually on preventive care, and catching health issues such as obesity and dental disease early, before they become a problem," says veterinarian and Pawcurious blogger Dr. V.

"Obesity is a very common example," she continues. "If you get an overweight pet back down to a healthy weight before degenerative joint problems set in, they will have a longer and healthier life. Although it is uncommon, young adults can unfortunately still be afflicted with dangerous diseases like cancer, kidney disease or heart disease, and we like to catch those as early as possible with routine examinations."

Basic adult exams usually include:

• A full physical examination
• Stool check for parasites
• Mouth check for periodontal disease
• Vaccinations
• Possible heartworm test and preventative

Questions to ask the vet:

• Is my dog the right weight?
• Are there any side effects of the vaccinations or heartworm preventative?
• What at-home dental care do you recommend for my pet?
• What vaccines do you recommend for my dog?
• When should my dog come back for her next exam?

Learn more about the developmental stages of your dog's life.

As your dog ages, his health needs change. Here's what you can expect from veterinary exams when your dog is a puppy. Stay tuned for guides to vet visits for adult and senior dogs.

Puppy and adolescent exams
(ages 6 weeks to 18 months):
Your dog's early checkups can determine his attitude toward vet visits for the rest of his life, so take your time and allow both you and him to get comfortable. (Having treats on hand can go a long way!)

During the exam, your vet will take a baseline of your pet's health so he can note changes later in life. "Things a veterinarian will look for include function of all of the pet's major organ systems, signs of birth defects and abnormal disease, proper mental function and injury," veterinarian Raelynn Farnsworth tells The Seattle Times.

Basic puppy and adolescent exams usually include:

• Full physical examination
• Stool check for parasites
• Deworming, if necessary
  
• Vaccinations
• Possibly a heartworm test
  

"It's important to clarify that the physical examination itself is the same no matter the age of the pet," says Dr. V, veterinarian and author of the blog Pawcurious. "A thorough examination will allow the veterinarian to examine each organ system in a systematic manner that allows him or her to catch problems early."

Questions to ask the vet:

• What should I be feeding my puppy, and how much should I give him?
• Do you have tips for housetraining or training in general?
• When should my puppy be spayed or neutered?
• How often should my puppy be vaccinated, and for what?
• Is it safe for my puppy to go outside or to see other dogs yet?
• Does my puppy need to be on a flea, tick or heartworm preventative?
• When should my puppy come back for his next exam?

For more information about your puppy's veterinary care, check out our New Puppy Health Guide.

In honor of Adopt-A-Shelter-Cat Month, we're giving you a step-by-step guide to make vet trips easier for everyone and ensure cats get the healthcare they need. This week we're tackling the cat carrier. (Read our past vet tips posts here.)

For cats, seeing the cat carrier is often the first sign that something bad is about to happen (i.e. a trip to the vet). So the first step to reducing the stress of vet visits (or travel in general) is to create positive carrier associations for your cat -- a process which will take some time and patience, but can be well worth it.

Try these ten simple steps, then check out the bonus trouble-shooting tips from Banfield's expert veterinarian below:

1. Start young: Kittens usually adjust to new experiences and surroundings more easily than adult or senior cats, so start the carrier-training process as early as possible. But fear not -- adult and senior cats can still learn that the carrier is a-okay (my 9-year-old cat Mojo certainly did!).


2. Keep the carrier accessible: Too many cats only see the carrier when it's time to go somewhere, so they begin to stress as soon as the carrier appears. Instead, keep your cat's carrier on the floor and open at all times. Your cat should be free to come and go as he pleases so he doesn't see the carrier as a place where he gets trapped.


3. Make the carrier a nice place to be: Place some comfy bedding in the carrier and toss in a few treats, your cat's favorite toys or some catnip when you first set it up. Check and replenish the supply every few days at random.


4. Feed your cat inside the carrier: If your cat will eat his food inside the carrier, start putting his food dish inside the crate daily. If he won't, try putting his food dish a few feet away and moving it an inch or two closer to the crate each day -- just make sure your cat keeps eating. If he doesn't, move the food a little further away and try moving it closer more slowly. TIP: Some extra smart cats won't enter the crate with you standing nearby -- they think you'll lock them in -- so try moving away and watching from across the room.


5. Get your cat's mind working by teaching an "in" command: Once your cat's confident enough to go into the carrier to eat and get treats, start calling your cat over to the crate to get treats. Toss a treat in the carrier and when your cat goes in say "in." Praise him for as long as he's in the carrier. Once he comes out, toss in another treat and repeat.
   
   Over time, you can start saying "in" first and your cat should go into the carrier on his own -- just be sure to treat him after he does and while he's still in the carrier. Working with your cat around the carrier pairs all of your cat's favorite things together -- playing, learning, treats and you! -- and shows him the carrier's not only safe, but fun.


6. Practice shutting and opening the carrier door: Keep up with steps 1-5, but now start closing the door and locking it before giving your cat the treat after the "in" command. Once he's eaten the treat entirely, reopen the crate, let him come out and repeat. Practice this and gradually increase the amount of time the crate door stays shut. If your cat is calm while the door is shut, give him more treats. If he seems upset or tries to get out, do not treat and try again with less time in the crate.


7. Practice picking up the carrier: After your cat learns that a shut carrier door is okay, try picking up the carrier with him in it and putting it back down gently. Add this to your training routine.


8. Practice walking with the carrier: Once you're able to pick up the carrier with your cat inside and remaining calm, try taking a couple steps and then gently putting the carrier back down, treating him and then letting him out.


9. Practice going outside with the carrier: You don't have to go far -- just outside your front door and back inside could be far enough at first. The key is to make sure kitty remains calm while you repeat this -- you can gradually increase your distance and time over time.


10. Walk around the block: Keep practicing with kitty until you're able to walk all the way around the block with him inside the carrier and remaining calm. Once you can do this you'll know your cat's fear of the carrier has been conquered.

For some cats, actually traveling in the carrier -- or being closed in against his or her will -- will always be a bit unnerving. Karen Johnson, DVM, of Banfield Pet Hospital in Portland, OR, gave us these great troubleshooting tips:
 

• For cats who refuse to enter the carrier with you nearby, try tipping the carrier on its end and putting your cat in rear-end first.


• Make sure your carrier is the right size for your cat and for the function you need it for. (For instance, cats flying in the cabin on an airplane will need a soft-sided carrier.)


• Give your cat time, time and more time. Even if you set up the carrier, "it might be days or even weeks before the cat feels comfortable enough to explore it," says Dr. Johnson. Don't fret, let your cat take the time he needs.


• It's okay if the carrier's not his favorite place. "While the cat may not like the carrier, he or she should learn that it's a safe place," says Dr. Johnson. By knowing the carrier is safe, your cat is less likely to have serious anxiety about being in the carrier -- even if he never likes being inside it.

I've been practicing this routine for nearly three years now and my cat Mojo's a different cat. Before, Mojo disappeared as soon as the carrier appeared. Now, she seeks out her carrier for naps, willingly climbing into and finding comfort in the small space.

Next time: Getting your cat to relax in the car.

Few things strike fear in the hearts of cat parents like a trip to the vet -- and the result, too often, is that our cats get inadequate healthcare. In fact, cat advocacy group the Catalyst Council estimates that cats go to the vet less than half as often as dogs.

USA Today pet columnist Sharon L. Peters recently interviewed the ASPCA Animal Behavior Center's Kristen Collins about how to keep cats calm during vet trips. Read the full article here.

Collins offered these tips, all of which will be easy with a kitten ("With an adult cat," Peters writes, "you follow all the same procedures, but you must go much slower"):

1. As early as possible in your cat's life, get him used to different people and environments.
   
   
2. Use a cat harness and leash to go out into the world, and give your cat treats and playtime in each new environment. (Learn more about harness training your cat here.)
   
   
3. Take practice trips to the vet once or twice a week -- your cat won't be examined, but you'll give him treats and let him get used to the place.
   
   
4. Make the cat carrier a positive place -- leave it open all the time, filled with comfy bedding. Feed your cat in it and stick treats inside it often.
   
   
5. Get your cat used to being handled the way the vet will handle her. While you're at home and for just a few seconds to start, get your cat used to being scruffed, having her hindquarters handled and lying on her back, so those won't feel scary during a vet visit.