Fourth of July weekend is almost here! But while the fun, sun and fireworks may be great for you, the loud noises, people coming and going and confusion may spell trouble for your pet. In fact, more pets get lost on Independence Day each year than any other day, according to HomeAgain's marketing director Linda Block.

Before you head off for the weekend, test your pet-safety knowledge with this Independence Day quiz provided by HomeAgain and check out our bonus tips below. Then pledge to keep your pet safe on the Fourth of July on HomeAgain's Facebook page:

1) If your pet is sensitive to loud noises like fireworks, you should turn on the TV or music when leaving the house.

Answer: True. By raising the indoor ambient sound level, you will cancel out some of the booming noise from outside and comfort your pet with the feeling she is not alone.

2) It is smart to leave your pet in the car when going to see fireworks.

Answer: False. Do not leave your pet in the car. With only hot air to breathe, your pet can suffer serious health effects, even death, in a few short minutes. Leaving the window open exposes your pet to being stolen. [Learn more about the dangers of leaving your pet in a parked car.]

3) Keeping your pet at home, indoors, in a sheltered, quiet area during fireworks makes sense.

Answer: True. Some pets can become destructive when frightened. Be sure to remove any items that your pet could destroy, or that would be harmful if chewed or ingested.

4) If you know that your pet is seriously distressed by loud noises like thunder, consult with your veterinarian before July 4.

Answer: True. Your veterinarian will offer ways to help alleviate the fear and anxiety your pet will experience during fireworks displays. As the saying goes, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."

5) It's okay to leave your pet outside, unattended in a fenced yard or on a chain, if he or she is comfortable there.

Answer: False. If frightened, pets that normally wouldn't leave the yard may escape and become lost, or become entangled in their chain, risking injury or death.

Fourth of July can be fun for you and safe for your pet, with the right precautions. Here are a few bonus tips for keeping your pet safe and sound this weekend (you can also watch our video for tips about pets and fireworks):

• Confine nervous pets to a quiet, indoor location away from windows. For pets particularly afraid of loud noises, consider enclosing them in a windowless room that's central in your house to reduce the sound of the fireworks. You can turn on the radio, air conditioner or television to add more of a sound buffer.
• Get your dog used to loud noises ahead of time. A little practice can go a long way toward helping your pet stay calm when he hears big booming noises. Check out these tips for conditioning your dog to loud sounds.
• Try a calming massage or pressure therapy. For pets that pace, jump or can't seem to settle, applying pressure to key areas may help. Try giving a massage to your cat or using a Thundershirt pressure vest on your anxious pup.

Tell us: How does your pet react to the sound of fireworks?

Cats require plenty of fresh, clean water to maintain urinary health and prevent kidney disease. Senior cats especially need to drink generously to pamper their aging kidneys. So in honor of Adopt-A-Shelter-Cat Month, I'm covering the art of getting your cat to drink more water.

When my cat Ivan began to have issues with feline lower urinary tract disease, everyone had ideas to encourage him to drink just a little more.

My veterinarian suggested adding clam juice to his water. Ivan stuck his nose up. A friend gifted him with a kitty water fountain. My inquisitive young cat Longfellow (pictured) found it fascinating, but Ivan regarded it with disdain. I let the tub faucet drip to draw his attention, but the sound drove me crazy.

Keeping Ivan hydrated was becoming a bigger chore than he or I wanted it to be.

I finally decided that simplicity was best. Why stop at one or two water bowls? I went to my cupboard for unused crockery and made water available at a generous number of locations throughout the house. I wanted Ivan and the rest of my cat clan to encounter water bowls throughout the day and be enticed to take a drink.

It worked. I was amazed to see how often I found a cat lapping from a bowl just because it happened to be on his way from point A to point B. Here are some tips for fine-tuning the strategy:

• Put water bowls in places your cat likes to spend time. Cats are usually given two small bowls for food and water, placed where humans aren't likely to trip over them -- often in a busy kitchen where a cat has to dodge feet to get a drink. Give your cat additional options near his favorite lounging spots.
  
  
• Change the water often. A tiny bowl quickly becomes unappealing if it isn't refreshed once or twice a day.
  


• Use bowls you'll like to look at. Additional water bowls don't need to be bland. I have a beautiful pottery bowl from an artists' sale by the door to my living room. A tall handsome crock in the bathroom helps my arthritic senior cat lap without bending her stiff shoulders. How about that old set of china, or the serving bowl you were given that doesn't match a thing? Might they brighten up a corner or a hallway?


• Offer some additional incentives. By placing a sturdy water dish inside your bathtub, you can encourage your four-footed tub-surfer to take another drink, or provide a playful cat with a place to splash to her heart's content without soaking the floor. Toss a ping pong ball in there for some added activity!


• Prevent messes. Outside of the tub, you can help tame a feline water-paddler by placing one bowl inside another. The water your cat splashes out of the first bowl will simply spill into the second. Beautifully glazed plant saucers work well for this, and give you yet another reason to visit your local garden center this spring.

Ivan doesn't have a favorite bowl. He drinks from each and every one. He knows they all were placed there just for him!

However, my senior cat, Cricket (pictured), is three-legged and full of attitude. Her favorite bowl is ceramic, square, painted with lemons and leaves, and sits on a cabinet between two windows in my den. I'm not certain why water tastes better from her special bowl, or why she chooses to climb to drink when there are more convenient bowls all around her. I don't question her royal judgment. If it keeps her drinking, and helps keep her healthy in her senior years, I'm happy!

Tell us: Does your cat have a favorite place to drink water?

We're just about to the end of June, Adopt-A-Shelter-Cat Month, but here's another story that shows a side of cats that some folks never get to see.

Two years ago, the Spicers of North Canton, OH, adopted a kitten they named Pinky Tuscadero. Their oldest cat had died, and they hoped a new feline friend would be great for their other two cats.

"After two weeks of looking on Petfinder.com, I saw one profile in particular which melted my heart," Kathy Spicer says. Miley, as she was called then, had been living on her own during a bitter winter. Woozez Animal Rescue, part of the Coalition for Animal Concerns in Canton, took her in and posted her on Petfinder.

Shy at first, Pinky eventually formed a strong bond with the Spicers' oldest cat, Cleo, but as 2011 dawned, Cleo, at 17, was fading, and Kathy worried about how Pinky would react to the older cat's death. She and her husband decided to adopt another cat.

They found Roxy listed on Petfinder by Independence Animal Control Shelter in Independence, OH. Just from reading about her, they knew she might just be the special cat that would help Pinky deal with the inevitable. Roxy had raised her own kittens in a woodpile before she was rescued and, once at the shelter, she fostered other kittens -- all the more amazing, considering her diminutive size: six pounds. She had a strong nurturing nature.

Roxy was at the shelter for "almost a year, often passed by for the young kittens and the more exotic-looking cats," Kathy says, evidence that "this little grey tabby was meant to be with us." She goes on to say that Roxy "will get the love, attention, good veterinary care, fun and cuddles every animal deserves."

Cleo passed away recently, and Pinky is grieving. But her loss is tempered by the presence of her new friend, Roxy, with whom she is bonding. Friends always help, and Roxy is a natural at befriending.

BISSELL Homecare, Inc., has launched an online fundraising campaign to help homeless pets. And you can help!

For each new person who clicks to "like" BISSELL's Facebook page, the company will donate 50 cents to The Petfinder.com Foundation toward a goal of donating $50,000 in 2011.

If you're already a BISSELL fan and want to help, share this short video with your friends and family and encourage them to participate! It will only take a minute of your time, and it will go a long way to help homeless pets.



BISSELL is a longtime sponsor of Petfinder.com, and we at the Petfinder.com Foundation are so excited to have their support in 2011. Help BISSELL support the Petfinder.com Foundation and aid shelters, rescue groups and homeless pets across America. Visit BISSELL's Facebook page today and start spreading the word!

Maria Goodavage writes Dogster's For the Love of Dog blog and is an avid traveler with her dog Jake.This article was adapted from her book, The Dog Lover's Companion to California. The 7th edition of the book will be out in June.

Good dogs make great hotel guests. They don't steal towels, and they don't get drunk and keep the neighbors up all night.

These days, the nation is brimming with lodgings whose owners welcome dogs. You can stay in all kinds of lodgings -- from inexpensive motels to lovely bed-and-breakfast inns to posh hotels. But the basic dog etiquette rules are the same everywhere.

Here are the top 10 tips to make sure that both you and your dog are invited back:

1. Don't leave your dog alone. Leaving a dog alone in a strange place invites serious trouble. Scared, nervous dogs may tear apart drapes, carpeting, and furniture. They may even injure themselves. They might also bark nonstop and scare the daylights out of the housekeeper.


2. Bring only a housetrained dog to a lodging. How would you like a house guest to go to the bathroom in the middle of your bedroom?


3. Make sure your pooch is flea-free. Otherwise, future guests will be itching to leave.


4. If possible, bring your dog's bed or blanket along for the night. Your dog will feel more at home and won't be tempted to jump on the hotel bed. If your dog sleeps on the bed with you at home, bring a sheet and put it on top of the bed so the hotel's bedspread won't get furry or dirty.


5. Don't wash your dog in the hotel tub. "It's very yucky," I was told by one motel manager who has seen so many furry tubs that she's thinking about banning dogs.


6. Bring your own food and water bowls, or request special bowls. Refrain from using the ice bucket as a water or food bowl. Bring your own bowls, or stay in a hotel that provides them, as many of the nicer ones do these days.


7. Keep your dog from barking. After a few days (or hours!) in a hotel, some dogs come to think of it as home. They get territorial. When another hotel guest walks by, it's "Bark! Bark!" When the housekeeper knocks, it's "Bark! Snarl! Bark! Gnash!" Keep your dog quiet, or you'll both find yourselves looking for a new home away from home. (Check out these tips for stopping your dog's problem barking.)


8. Be honest about your dog's size. For some strange reason, some lodgings prefer small dogs as guests. It's really ridiculous. Large dogs are often much calmer and quieter than their tiny, high-energy cousins. If you're in a location where you can't find a hotel that will accept you and your big brute (a growing rarity these days), it's time to try a sell job. Let the manager know how good and quiet your dog is (if he is). Promise he won't eat the bathtub or run around and shake all over the hotel. Offer a deposit or sign a waiver, even if they're not required for small dogs. It helps if your sweet, soppy-eyed dog is at your side to convince the decision-maker.


9. Do your research about dog fees. There's nothing like checking in at a hotel and finding out that your dog is going to cost as much as your room. Some hotels let dogs stay free, others require a deposit that will be refunded when management sees the room has not been eaten or otherwise destroyed. Many charge a fee for dogs. Sometimes it's nominal ($5), sometimes it's over the top ($500 for the length of your stay -- even if your stay is one night), but usually it's relatively reasonable. I've heard from hotel staffers that some guests get downright nasty about the fees when they haven't done their research. Don't be one of those.


10. Don't try to sneak your dog into a hotel. In the dark ages of dog-friendly lodgings, I sneaked dogs into hotels. But I don't recommend it. The lodging might have a good reason for its rules. Besides, you always feel as if you're going to be caught and thrown out on your hindquarters. You race in and out of your room with your dog as if ducking sniper fire. It's better to avoid feeling like a criminal and move on to a more dog-friendly location. With the number of lodgings that welcome dogs these days, you won't have to go far.

The second round of The Animal Rescue Site $300K Shelter+ Challenge of 2011 is officially over, with two more rounds to go this year.

In the first two rounds, the Petfinder.com Foundation and The Animal Rescue Site awarded a total of $150,000 in grants to 67 shelters and rescue groups across the country.

In the most recent round, Blind Cat Rescue & Sanctuary, Inc. of St. Pauls, NC, won the $5,000 Grand Prize. Sixty-six other shelters and rescue groups received grants ranging from $1,000-2,000.

Many winners had never won a Shelter+ Challenge grant before. Among the first-time winners was Jackson County Humane Society in Newport, AR, which won  the Spring Romp Photo Contest category. Supporter Stacy Chambliss submitted the adorable photo of her bulldog Mack kissing a kitten, which won over voters nationwide and earned the shelter a $2,000 grant.

Your favorite adoption group can still win a grant! The next round of voting begins July 4 at The Animal Rescue Site. Until then, you can still help homeless pets by visiting the site every day and clicking the purple button to donate money to animal shelters.

Learn more about The Animal Rescue Site $300K Shelter+ Challenge of 2011 and the next round (which starts July 4!) here.

To learn more about the Petfinder.com Foundation's programs and how to donate, visit: www.petfinderfoundation.com.

You and your pet are a package deal, and that's fabulous. But when you're in a relationship with someone who doesn't understand that bond, it can cause strain.

When we asked on our Facebook page, "Do you and your significant other fight about your pets?" many of you said yes.

In fact, some said you'd ditched partners who were unsupportive, or even jealous, of your pets. And shelter staffers know all too well that some people will give up their pets for the sake of a peaceful relationship.

So to help keep the whole family together, here are some tips for overcoming pet-related hard feelings:

• Find out why your spouse is really mad. "When the partner brings up the hair all over the place, the pet getting more attention, etc., they might mean, 'I feel second best, used or put upon,' and that feeling might be a theme in the relationship," New York City-based marriage and family therapist (and pet parent) Emma Viglucci, LMFT, tells us.
  


• Take the focus off the pet. Once you've identified the underlying issue, focus on your partner's feelings, not his or her criticism of your pet. Tempting as it may be, going into protective pet-parent mode only "aggravates the situation more by continuing to hurt your partner," Viglucci says.
  
  
• Help your spouse bond with your pet. If your partner feels left out of your and your pet's close relationship, come up with activities just for the two of them. Maybe your husband can teach your dog some cool tricks or your wife can introduce your cat to a new game. Or maybe your pet can join in your partner's favorite activity, whether it's jogging or watching TV.
  

Of course, if you need extra help, call a trainer for hard-to-fix pet behaviors, or talk to a counselor together to work on tough relationship issues. No family is perfect, but with a little work, patience and communication, you and your spouse can enjoy pet parenthood together.

Senior pets, like people, can suffer mental decline that is not considered a normal part of aging. Last time we wrote about how one form of dementia -- cognitive dysfunction syndrome or CDS -- can be treated with diet and supplements. This week we're looking at a commonly prescribed medication for treating CDS. (Read all our CDS posts.)

There are not yet many medications to treat cognitive dysfunction syndrome in pets. Anipryl, the brand name for a drug also known as selegiline hydrochloride or L-deprenyl, is currently the only FDA-approved treatment for CDS in dogs.

(There is no drug approved for treatment of CDS in cats, although some veterinarians report promising results using L-deprenyl in cats.)

Anipryl increases the dopamine levels in dogs' brains to improve memory and help dogs think more clearly, but it has a varying success rate.

In one study by manufacturer Pfizer Animal Health, 69% of pet parents who treated their dogs with Anipryl for one month reported improvement in at least one symptom of CDS, compared to 52% of those who gave their dogs a placebo.

Like all drugs, Anipryl comes with a risk of side effects, including -- but not limited to -- diarrhea, vomiting, restlessness or hyperactivity, loss of appetite, seizures, staggering and lethargy.

If your dog has CDS, ask your vet about prescription medications in addition to dietary and lifestyle changes -- and be sure to mention any other medications or supplements your pet is taking, including flea and tick products, which may cause negative interactions.

Though CDS has no cure, using a mix of cognitive enrichment, routine, diet and medication can slow the progression of the disease and improve the quality of life for your whole family.

Tell us: Does your dog or cat show signs of CDS? What did your vet recommend?

We're celebrating Adopt-A-Shelter-Cat Month by featuring happy tails we've received about cats. Here's one about Genie, a little cat who was all alone on the streets.

She had an injured front leg and a cut on her side and no one to tend to her. But then a bit of luck came her way. Beth, a volunteer at Just Strays, a rescue group in Yonkers, NY, found her wandering in an alley and took her in. The rescue tended to her needs and posted her photo on Petfinder.

Patricia Pasquale of Eastchester, NY, spotted the cat online and adopted her. "She is so sweet, gentle, energetic and playful, and she has brightened every day since I brought her home," Patricia says.

Not only is Genie all of the above, she's also something of a celebrity. Patricia entered her in a pet photo contest sponsored by a local magazine. "She got a lot of votes," her proud "mom" says, "and was picked as one of the ten pets in the issue." What's more, "she's the only cat among a crowd of dogs."

Now that's something to meow about.

In honor of Adopt-A-Shelter-Cat Month, we're giving you a step-by-step guide to make vet trips easier for everyone and ensure cats get the healthcare they need. This week we're tackling the cat carrier. (Read our past vet tips posts here.)

For cats, seeing the cat carrier is often the first sign that something bad is about to happen (i.e. a trip to the vet). So the first step to reducing the stress of vet visits (or travel in general) is to create positive carrier associations for your cat -- a process which will take some time and patience, but can be well worth it.

Try these ten simple steps, then check out the bonus trouble-shooting tips from Banfield's expert veterinarian below:

1. Start young: Kittens usually adjust to new experiences and surroundings more easily than adult or senior cats, so start the carrier-training process as early as possible. But fear not -- adult and senior cats can still learn that the carrier is a-okay (my 9-year-old cat Mojo certainly did!).


2. Keep the carrier accessible: Too many cats only see the carrier when it's time to go somewhere, so they begin to stress as soon as the carrier appears. Instead, keep your cat's carrier on the floor and open at all times. Your cat should be free to come and go as he pleases so he doesn't see the carrier as a place where he gets trapped.


3. Make the carrier a nice place to be: Place some comfy bedding in the carrier and toss in a few treats, your cat's favorite toys or some catnip when you first set it up. Check and replenish the supply every few days at random.


4. Feed your cat inside the carrier: If your cat will eat his food inside the carrier, start putting his food dish inside the crate daily. If he won't, try putting his food dish a few feet away and moving it an inch or two closer to the crate each day -- just make sure your cat keeps eating. If he doesn't, move the food a little further away and try moving it closer more slowly. TIP: Some extra smart cats won't enter the crate with you standing nearby -- they think you'll lock them in -- so try moving away and watching from across the room.


5. Get your cat's mind working by teaching an "in" command: Once your cat's confident enough to go into the carrier to eat and get treats, start calling your cat over to the crate to get treats. Toss a treat in the carrier and when your cat goes in say "in." Praise him for as long as he's in the carrier. Once he comes out, toss in another treat and repeat.
   
   Over time, you can start saying "in" first and your cat should go into the carrier on his own -- just be sure to treat him after he does and while he's still in the carrier. Working with your cat around the carrier pairs all of your cat's favorite things together -- playing, learning, treats and you! -- and shows him the carrier's not only safe, but fun.


6. Practice shutting and opening the carrier door: Keep up with steps 1-5, but now start closing the door and locking it before giving your cat the treat after the "in" command. Once he's eaten the treat entirely, reopen the crate, let him come out and repeat. Practice this and gradually increase the amount of time the crate door stays shut. If your cat is calm while the door is shut, give him more treats. If he seems upset or tries to get out, do not treat and try again with less time in the crate.


7. Practice picking up the carrier: After your cat learns that a shut carrier door is okay, try picking up the carrier with him in it and putting it back down gently. Add this to your training routine.


8. Practice walking with the carrier: Once you're able to pick up the carrier with your cat inside and remaining calm, try taking a couple steps and then gently putting the carrier back down, treating him and then letting him out.


9. Practice going outside with the carrier: You don't have to go far -- just outside your front door and back inside could be far enough at first. The key is to make sure kitty remains calm while you repeat this -- you can gradually increase your distance and time over time.


10. Walk around the block: Keep practicing with kitty until you're able to walk all the way around the block with him inside the carrier and remaining calm. Once you can do this you'll know your cat's fear of the carrier has been conquered.

For some cats, actually traveling in the carrier -- or being closed in against his or her will -- will always be a bit unnerving. Karen Johnson, DVM, of Banfield Pet Hospital in Portland, OR, gave us these great troubleshooting tips:
 

• For cats who refuse to enter the carrier with you nearby, try tipping the carrier on its end and putting your cat in rear-end first.


• Make sure your carrier is the right size for your cat and for the function you need it for. (For instance, cats flying in the cabin on an airplane will need a soft-sided carrier.)


• Give your cat time, time and more time. Even if you set up the carrier, "it might be days or even weeks before the cat feels comfortable enough to explore it," says Dr. Johnson. Don't fret, let your cat take the time he needs.


• It's okay if the carrier's not his favorite place. "While the cat may not like the carrier, he or she should learn that it's a safe place," says Dr. Johnson. By knowing the carrier is safe, your cat is less likely to have serious anxiety about being in the carrier -- even if he never likes being inside it.

I've been practicing this routine for nearly three years now and my cat Mojo's a different cat. Before, Mojo disappeared as soon as the carrier appeared. Now, she seeks out her carrier for naps, willingly climbing into and finding comfort in the small space.

Next time: Getting your cat to relax in the car.